If you only visit one horse event in your lifetime, make it the Golegã Horse Fair.

For two weeks every November, the small Portuguese town of Golegã completely transforms. Horses outnumber cars, riders fill the streets from early morning until late into the night, and everywhere you look there are Lusitanos, traditional Portuguese costumes, beautifully turned-out horses and an atmosphere unlike anything we have ever experienced.

This isn't a polished international horse show where everyone stands behind barriers watching from afar. You will be right in amongst all the action and it does get busy especially around the main arena that centres the town and is all part of Golegã's charm. Breeders present magnificent stallions, families ride into town for the day, working riders hack through the streets, horses are bought and sold at the side of the ring, and locals meet outside cafés and wine bars on their horses as if it is a regular occurrence. The horses weave through crowds, markets and music like they've done it every day of their lives.

Based at the welcoming family-run Quinta do Falcão, you'll enjoy the best of both worlds. Spend your mornings developing your classical dressage skills with Pedro Teixeira Farto before heading over to Golegã each afternoon and evening. Just wander and see where the day takes you. The timetable for the fair is different for each day but you are sure to find plenty going on.

One minute you'll be watching working equitation, the next you'll stumble across a parade of traditional carriages, then find yourself ringside as Lusitanos are put through their paces for potential buyers. Pop into one of the bars for a glass of Portuguese wine or get a beer from one of the stands dotted around, grab a bag of hot churros, browse the tack stalls or stand ringside and watch hundreds of horses pass within touching distance. We arrived just after lunch and didn't leave until 10pm, and honestly, it felt like the evening was only just getting started.

Back at Quinta do Falcão, riding is centred around good classical principles, sympathetic training and helping each rider improve. Lessons are tailored to your experience and whether your goal is to work on your position, learn new dressage movements or try the precision of working equitation, Pedro's calm, knowledgeable approach gets the very best from both horse and rider. The Lusitanos are beautifully schooled, generous with their riders and an absolute pleasure to ride.

The Salvador family have bred and trained Lusitanos here for generations and their passion for the horses shines through everything they do. Their hospitality is just as memorable as the riding, and it's the sort of place where you'll quickly feel less like a guest and more staying with friends.

If you can't make the November fair, Quinta do Falcão also offers Classical Dressage and Working Equitation holidays throughout the rest of the year and you can find out more by clicking the link below:

https://www.zarasplanet.com/rides/quinta-do-falcao-classical-dressage-and-working-equitation

If time allows, add an extra night or two in Lisbon before flying home. Portugal's capital is one of Europe's most enjoyable cities to explore, with fantastic restaurants, lively squares and plenty to see on foot. Ride the iconic yellow Tram 28 through the historic neighbourhoods, wander the narrow streets of Alfama, visit the impressive Jerónimos Monastery and Belém Tower, or spend an evening watching the sun set over the River Tagus with a glass of Portuguese wine. 

Don't leave without trying a warm Pastel de Nata from the famous Pastéis de Belém bakery – they're worth the queue.