Thin Air and Tears: Riding the Salkantay Trail to Machu Picchu
Written by Kati
There is a very unromantic kind of panic that sets in when you wake up at three in the morning at 3,900 meters, feeling like you simply cannot pull enough air into your lungs.
I’ve spent a fair amount of time on horseback in South America, escaping the routine of everyday life. But Peru’s lodge-to-lodge Salkantay trail is a totally different beast. It is a tough mountain trek that asks a lot of your body, tests your limits, and reminds you just how fragile we can be. It is also, without question, one of the most rewarding journeys you can make on a horse.
The Reality Check
Before the trip, I had leaned heavily into the dream of Machu Picchu, making it sound like a beautiful, scenic ride through the Andes. What I had not mentally prepared for is the part where you are huffing oxygen from a bedside tank at Salkantay Lodge because your body hasn’t caught up to the elevation. I am reasonably riding fit, but high altitude treats everyone the same; it cares very little about your gym routine. Most people adapt just fine, but it pays to know what you are walking—or riding—into. The team and lodges are well trained and equipped with oxygen tanks but the thin air is real, the elements are unpredictable, and treating the mountains with anything less than absolute respect is a rookie error.
Yet, on the flip side of that physical challenge, the landscape is stunning and this still remains one of the most epic journeys I’ve ever had—bucketlist stuff for sure, if you ask me.
Crying at the Chakana
On our second day, riding up toward the Chakana viewpoint near Humantay Lake, the scenery hit me so hard it caught me totally off guard. Surrounded by snowy peaks and impossibly blue glacial water, I sat in my saddle and quietly burst into tears. It wasn't sadness; it was just the overwhelming feeling of how small we are in the middle of all that beauty. When our local shaman performed a blessing ritual later that afternoon to ask the mountain spirits for safe passage, he looked at my red eyes and nodded knowingly. “You must have been a mountaineer in your past life,” he said. Maybe. Or maybe Peru just makes you feel things very deeply.
Four Seasons in a Day: Crossing the Salkantay Pass
The mountains showed their true power on Day 3 as we climbed toward the 4,638-meter Salkantay Pass. True to Andean weather, we got all four seasons before lunch. Bright sunshine gave way within minutes to a fog so dense we couldn't see past our horses' ears, followed by a freezing, heavy downpour. Picking your way down steep, slick mountain paths when visibility drops to zero is proper, heart-in-your-throat territory. It’s humbling stuff.
By evening, however, the sky cleared completely. At Wayra Lodge, the stars and the Milky Way hung so low and sharp over the peaks that the universe felt within arm's reach. I almost had tears in my eyes again from the beauty… I’m not sure what this place did to me!
From Glaciers to Jungle
What makes this route so incredible is how much the scenery changes. By Day 4, the biting cold of the high peaks faded as we descended into the cloud forest. Dropping down toward Colpa Lodge felt like moving into a completely different world. The grey stone gave way to lush green plants, orchids, and colorful hummingbirds buzzing around. By Day 5, we were winding through the Santa Teresa valley, past avocado orchards and coffee plants, trading the rugged mountains for the warm air of the lower valley.
Leaving our horses behind and walking the final stretch to our lodge brought one of the most wholesome highlights of the entire trip. We stopped by a small local homestead in the heart of the coffee plantation area, where an elderly local woman showed us how coffee is truly made. We watched her manually roast the beans right in front of us over an open fire, grind them down, and brew a cup from scratch. It was wonderfully simple, entirely removed from any fancy coffee shop back home, and easily the most memorable cup of coffee I have ever had in my life. It was also, without question, the strongest. I am well-used to strong coffee, but the caffeine levels in that cup were genuinely through the roof—my heart was practically pounding out of my chest by the time we finished it!
The Finnish Sisu vs. The Tropical Heat
Of course, no trip of mine is complete without a bit of stubbornness. On Day 6, facing the choice of a comfortable car ride around the Aobamba River Valley or a hike up to the Llactapata Pass, my internal logic was simple: Cars are for people who haven't spent five days in a saddle.
Naturally, I chose the hike. And just as naturally, I spent the next few hours regretting every life choice that brought me to a humid rainforest, cursing my past knee and hip surgeries, and swearing fluently in my mother tongue, Finnish. The legendary Finnish sisu—that stubborn grit—was working overtime in the jungle. If you've ever heard someone aggressively pep-talk themselves in a remote rainforest while questioning their sanity, you'd know exactly how I felt.
The Grand Finale: Machu Picchu and the "Stairs of Death"
The grand finale, of course, was Machu Picchu. Ever since I studied Latin American history as an exchange student in Mexico, the citadel had sat at the very top of my travel wish list. Seeing it in the early morning light did not disappoint; it really is as impressive as people say.
Naturally, I couldn't just look at it and leave. Ignoring my screaming joints from the previous day's hike, I signed up to climb Huayna Picchu. What people don't emphasize enough is that this ancient path finishes with the "Stairs of Death"—vertical, cliff-hugging stone steps that will test your nerves.
Safe to say, I won't be hiking or climbing vertical cliffs anytime soon. But as sights go, it was completely worth it.
The Horses and the Lodges
When you are tackling terrain this demanding, everything comes down to your four-legged partner. The horses on this trail are incredible—tough, remarkably fit mountain horses that are completely used to the steep paths and high-altitude air. The herd is a mix of Peruvian Pasos, Quarter Horses, and Arabian crosses, giving them the agility, stamina, and calm mindset needed to take good care of their riders when the trail gets tricky. You quickly learn to trust them completely.
I rode my little Paso bitless and absolutely loved him. He was one of the lead horses, forward and meant business on those mountains. He didn't care for my cuddles or scratches, but I totally forgive him for that—I would much rather have a sure-footed, hardworking partner than a teddy bear on terrain like this.
And at the end of a long day in the saddle, you aren't roughing it in tents. The accommodation consists of a series of really comfortable, well-appointed mountain lodges. After hours of battling the elements and thinning air, rolling into a warm, inviting lodge with proper beds, jacuzzis, hot showers, and hearty meals feels like absolute luxury.
A Few Practical Tips for the Road
The Salkantay Trail is not an easy holiday. It requires patience, an adjustment to the altitude, and a good sense of humor when things get tough. If you are planning your own escape, keep a few things in mind:
When to go: The ideal window runs from March through December, offering the most stable weather for hitting the trails.
Give yourself time in Cusco: Do not fly in and jump straight onto a horse. Arriving 1 to 2 days early is not just a nice idea; it is super important to give your body time to adjust to the altitude before you start the trek. Plus, Cusco is gorgeous. It is a stunning historic city filled with winding cobblestone streets, incredible Andean architecture, lively local markets, and fantastic restaurants where you can easily lose track of time wandering around. On top of that, the food scene in Cusco is incredible as well, offering everything from innovative modern Andean cuisine to wonderful local spots. It is totally worth spending a few unhurried days exploring before the real adventure begins.
For anyone looking for an unforgettable adventure, this journey is peerless. You can read more info about the Salkantay Trail and find dates and rates on our website.
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