Exclusive Horse Riding Holiday in Mongolia
- jilldolan
- Aug 5
- 10 min read
Written by Jill, visited June 2026
Genghis Khan Retreat, Orkhon Valley
It’s incredibly hard to describe a place when you feel like there are just no words – this is
how I feel about Mongolia, but I am going to try! A chance meeting at a showjumping competition in Ireland is where it all began… A friend of a friend was visiting from India; there was an introduction, a conversation about this wonderful exclusive retreat deep in the heart of Orkhon Valley, which piqued an interest with my business partner and best friend Zara. I heard all about it, and together we decided we should go – that our friends and clients were just the right sort of people to embrace such an adventure! Normally, when we host private rides, numbers are set at a maximum of 12 – but because of the nature of the retreat, their high staffing levels, the riding, the availability of horses, we invited a much larger group. Both Zara and I decided to embark on this extraordinary adventure together.
Ulaanbaatar – Capital City
First stop was the city, and we stayed two nights, right by the huge main square, at a decent hotel called Hotel Nine. We had a gorgeous woman called Tuul look after and guide us around all the highlights, which included a bus ride out the ginormous Genghis Khan Statue (so big you can climb up it to a cool viewing platform); a visit to her friends in their family ger on the way back (I was nervous it would feel contrived – how wrong was I! It was a beautiful interaction of souls connecting with each other); a walk around the Gandan Monastery, where we also had the privilege to listen to the morning chants; an interesting history fueled tour of the Winter Palace, which was the former residence of Mongolia’s Bogd Khan, their last king; oh, and the Black Market, where we had heaps of fun buying hats, marveling at fanciful boots and even buying colourful halters for our own horses at home! There was also much frustration, but also hilarity, at our large group dining at nearby restaurants; thankfully, the kind nature of the Mongolian people shone through.
All in all, I would absolutely recommend anyone to stay in UB. Make sure you get yourself a guide, as our interaction with Tuul was special, learning not only about the city but about her life, which was particularly engaging, as she is a woman in the early stages of creating a travel business. We were a group of mostly women and felt safe walking about in the evenings and visiting local bars. There’s a really great vibe to the city, and we were met with interest and respect.
The Russian Vans
Off to the Orkhon Valley, to the west and centre of Mongolia, a 7 hour journey, which we did in a convey of 5 Russian vans! Not for the faint hearted, so if you suffer from travel sickness, take some pills, but in the main, a journey I wouldn’t have missed for the world – as we left the city, the countryside opened up and we started to imagine what our destination would look like: no fences, open space as far as the eye could see, dressed with mountains at each side. We started to spot the first herds of horses – not wild, they are all owned, but completely free – cows, 2 humped camels, goats, sheep – yaks? Not yet, but they would be in abundance when we reached camp. At some point, we had to exit off the concrete to drive off road to get to camp. Think a roller coaster at speed, and drivers racing each other to get there first – even my stomach had a few flips going over this terrain!
First Glimpse of Camp
We came over a ridge, and there it was, sat on a hilltop, our ger village for the week (5 nights actually, as we decided to spend two nights wild camping, so we could experience other parts of the valley and what it had to offer). We stopped in our vans, got out and took in the view – deep breaths and a sense of awe enveloped our group.
Arrival was cool. All the camp team were there to greet us, a big group including our chef (omg, LOVED him), servers, tent attendants, masseuse, shaman, mixologist, grooms, doctor, yoga and sound bath healer – honestly, what more could you ask for…? Seeing them all there smiling, we immediately felt relaxed, gave them hugs, knew we would all have an exceptional week in their company, were beckoned into the dining tent for drinks and camp etiquette, whilst our bags were delivered to our spotless and very comfortable gers.
Our Gers
Each one was dotted along the hilltop, with entry through one door, circular, with the most beautifully hand painted furniture; you have drawers, a wardrobe and sink. Beds are
supremely comfortable and, to the delight of EVERYONE, each night when we returned from supper, there was a hot water bottle warming our sheets.
We also had a night loo, with curtain, should anyone be caught short, and a pretty sink basin. In the centre, we had a wood burning stove, which was quietly lit every morning by camp staff and at night, making sure we were cosy at all times.
Weather wise, in UB it had been cold; when we stepped off the plane early morning, it was 2 degrees. Zara and I could see panic in our group’s faces: had they brought enough warm gear or not? But once in the Orkhon Valley, temperatures rose, and shorts, t shirts and dresses were dug out of our luggage. If I was to describe what to pack and the weather, it’s like a Scottish Summer: be prepared for everything, rain, wind and shine – temperatures ranging from below 5 to over 25!
The Horses
Although there was so much else to do in camp, we were there for the riding – slightly concerned about the group size, we decided to split into two merry bands: a fast ride and a leisure one. Everyone in our group were good riders, but some wanted to take it easy and others wanted to fly off into the distance. It worked well like this, especially the first day.
The horses were stationed at the bottom of the camp, as was the very tidy tack ger and where the horsemen all congregated. Riding here is English style: simple bridles and bits, plus English saddles. They were a bit of a hark back to the 1970’s style, so were particularly hard and stiff – I’ll definitely bring a seat saver next time I visit!
In the most part, all the horses were in good condition, except one or two which were commented on and discussed with the team. And actually, although slim, their coats were bright and they had stamina; there was nothing else showing, apart from them being ribby, that would make you think they were in bad health or they were not fit for the job. We also have to understand how these horses exist in their own home, which is in big happy herds, freedom and access to roam wherever they please, integrated with a whole heap of other animals and worth a great deal to their families. Horses are a great pride to Mongolians. That said, life is not easy. Their winters are extreme, and it’s not normal to supplement feed in barren times, because hay is just not available, and the little that is, is unaffordable to most, which means this is a true place of survival of the fittest. Sadly, some horses just don’t survive the winter – I know it’s harsh, but that’s their truth and their lifestyle, dictated by their environment. What it does do is breed a particular horse that is very tough, has good feet, limbs, energy and power – more power than you can imagine for an animal of such small stature.
We had some exceptional riders with us, quite a few eventers – one had been round Badminton in her younger days – some show jumpers, showing people, breeders and, of course, happy hackers, and everyone agreed that, although not remarkably schooled, the horses were a joy to ride. No kickers or biters among them, easy to stop and easy to hop into a gallop – and nothing got silly or spicey when galloping in groups. We had some happier running at the back and front, as you do, but that was easily worked out. What these horses are – are a hell of a lot of fun. Honestly, when you ride over a ridge and see a full open steppe in front of you that you can have a blast over in a group safely, without any real concern about how the horse will cope on account of how sturdy and used to the terrain, it’s just absolute bliss!
Horsemen
What incredible riders our grooms were – seriously good and in tune with their horses. And the best part: very attentive. In our group settings, we’d have at least 3-5 horsemen with us, watching, making sure we were safe, riding up front, in the middle and bringing up any stragglers at the back as well!
And so even tempered, always smiles and very often singing us songs as they rode – in fact, singing was a big thing for the lads, and a highlight for us, on many occasions, but probably the highlight being when we were wild camping, all round a campfire. They sang multiple songs in unison; it was incredible, some solos too – thankfully, I recorded them and was so excited to play them to my husband, a musician also, when I got home. It’s also important to add that all of them are local, and D’Artagnan believes in investing in their futures and their families, making sure that, even though they work just three months of the year in camp, that they receive a full year’s salary and, when not with him, they return to their Nomadic families and lifestyle. He also organises training abroad for many of the men wanting to learn new skills and languages in other countries.
The Riding
We were very lucky to be able to experience a lot of different terrain and landscapes, from huge open steppe as far as the eye can see, up and down hills, through rivers and forests. Memorable moments kept on coming, but I think one of the loveliest was all of us riding out of day 2 of our wild camp trip, this time all riding as part of one group, and another herd of horses galloped past us on the hill above, not too distant. It was just absolutely beautiful to see!
The retreat also exists as a training camp for the Mongolian Polo Team, with many international Polo teams visiting too, to play tournaments throughout their short season, June – August. During any visit, you also have the chance to watch them practice and even join in!
Camp Activities
We were absolutely spoilt for choice. My favourite was kayaking down the Orkhon River, passing yaks on the way with a beer in my drink holder! Every day, you could also sign up for yoga, take a sound bath, have a massage, be treated by a real life shaman, archery, hiking and climbing.
Special Moments
Most evenings in camp, we were treated to some beautiful Piano music from Odgerel Sampilnorov – a hugely talented player, having studied in Italy and travelled in an orchestra around Europe, before returning to Mongolia. She has transcribed some of the most important traditional Mongol folk and classical music for the piano – which is what she played for us each night. Her interpretation, it was truly atmospheric and incredibly moving, as we sat quietly by candlelight before dinner.
On our final day, we experienced a slice of the Naadam Festival; it’s a time of year rather than a specific place. This was the only day that the weather put paid to some activities, but we did experience the local kids coming to camp to race. They were incredible, some without even a saddle, and boy did their horses run fast, while parents followed them on motorbikes, weaving in and out, whistling and cheering as they went, thundering along 4km of differing terrain till they reached back to camp, to the roar and applause of us all!
That evening, we were also invited down to the large horsemen's ger, where they had set out seats and tables and offered us up a traditional meal of goat. It was presented a bit like a huge haggis that one of our group, Jane, was asked to cut open – an honour very few are given, and she felt privileged to be able to do so. The night also included local performers, dancers and singers, and a chance to hear a real life throat singer. How he could make a two tone noise at one time escaped all of us; it was eerie and mesmerizing to watch and listen.
Food
I do think the Genghis Khan is exceptional in the food they offer and provide, and I don’t think normal for most of Mongolia, where there can be a scarcity of fruit and vegetables. We were met each morning in the breakfast tent with freshly cooked bread, variety of seeds, nuts, granolas, fresh yogurt, fruit, sweet buns and made to order spicey omletes, bacon, sausage and boiled eggs.
Lunches were fresh salads, tomatoes and blue cheese, beetroot, carrot and mixed nuts, breads, sometimes dumplings or a hearty soup. And supper was taken by candlelight, after an array of hors d’oeuvres, sometimes so much we barely needed any more, but we did, of course, indulge! My favourite was curry night, where we were served a selection of vegetable and meat dishes, that we all shared on our tables and marvelled at the flavours and the freshness of the dishes!
Drink
It was flowing, didn’t run out (always a danger when you have a predominantly Scottish and Irish group!), and we all looked forward to our pre dinner cocktail, designed each evening by mixologist extraordinaire Charlie!
Overall
I cannot recommend Mongolia highly enough as a true equine adventure. Horses remain key to their way of life and encompass a huge part of their lifestyle; there’s 60 million livestock roaming the land, and I can’t see this way of life changing for many years to come.
The Genghis Khan Retreat is primarily by private invitation and in private only groups like ours, but there is one or two dates they open to the public. Next year you can join; please get in touch for details. info@zarasplanet.com
We’ll also be hosting another week in June 2028. Again, do get in touch to put your name down on our wait list and receive full details. We also have other more basic trail rides running and include a Gobi Desert and Orkhon Valley trip, an Express Ride which favours those short on time, and another new luxury camp launching in 2027. More details:
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